1906 Orient Buckboard #2613

Orient Buckboard #2613

Good Morning;
Well, we are not be going to be present for your July 10 gathering but I will share the latest pictures of the 1906 Orient buckboard, serial number #2613 that I have been working on for the last eight months. I drove it in a local parade on June 5th, 2010. Put about 15 miles on the car and it drove and ran extremely well and we won a blue ribbon in the antique car class. The restoration will be on going for several years as the museum has funds available for small items like the carburetor air filter and kerosene headlight and side lights … Do you have any idea what a pair of original style side lights would cost???
Thanks for keeping us in the loop.
Bob Stewart

Grant County Historical Museum.in Canyon City, Oregon. We have what is supposed to a 1906 Orient Buckboard that has been in our museum since 1962.It is in remarkably good shape for as old as it is. Recently the board decided to try and fix it up and enter it in 2009 Grant County Fair parade.According to the original owner ours is a 1906 model.I am wondering if our information is incorrect? It appears to be a dual fuel engine, starting on gasoline and maybe running on kerosene after warming up,but we really don’t know.There is a very small fuel tank under the seat and a larger tank behind the seat.I hand cranked the engine over for the first time in almost 50 years. It has good compression and turns over easily with the compression release pushed down.We are needing a few parts that we can see so far.

1) distributor cap

2) air filter assembly

3) ignition switch

The ignition switch is all there but when the knob is pulled out, it comes all the way out in your hand. The air cleaner apparently screwed onto the carburetor as there are threads on it and the rest is missing. A wiring diagram would be most helpful.We have purchased 4 new tires and tubes from Corker Tire Co. The wheels are made of wood with steel spokes. Mounting the new tires without scaring up the wooden wheels will be a challenge. The wooden fenders are shot, the rears have been replaced with metal ones and the fronts are plywood which are falling apart. We think that they can be replaced with a good quality 7-ply marine grade 1/4″ plywood. What do you think? Any help would certainly be appreciated. Please share your comments with everyone in the comment section at the bottom of this post.

Grant County Historical MuseumGrant County Historical Museum 2Grant County Historical Museum3Grant County Historical Museum4Grant County Historical Museum5

Published in: on June 22, 2010 at 12:33 am  Comments (4)  

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4 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. Since there have been no comments, I will post my amateur views: The air filter surprises me. Not many cars before WWI had filters of any kind. It probably was a simple screen to keep out insects and debris. The “ignition” switch was probably a simple connection to send the magneto to ground (thus shutting it off). This simply connects the magneto to the chassis. That’s how the later Metz 22 worked.

    The wood fenders should, ideally, be custom-formed from veneer. Make a form from plywood and lumber to the radius of the original (or a bit tighter), then glue sheets of veneer over it (using wax paper to keep from sticking to the form). A vacuum-clamp set-up would work well for this. I have one in my home shop (see http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm)and it works great. Otherwise, you would need another piece of plywood and a bunch of clamps to clamp your plies together. Use Titebond III waterproof glue. For a quickie job, use “bending plywood”. You would need a metal frame to attach it to in order to retain the shape, however.

    By “distributor cap”, I assume you mean the little metal cap on the magneto. You may well find that part if you can I.D. the magneto make & model. A photo would help, too. Ed Strain Magneto in Florida
    could help you, also.
    Best of Luck,

    Phil Jamison
    West Chester, PA

  2. A trick to mounting the tires is to put a thin plastic bag over the rim (like a clear recycling bag) and slip the tire right on over that. Avoid the air valve with the bag. When the tire is on, pull out the bag. You will still probably need a couple tire irons, and I suggest you coat them with plastic tool handle dip you can get at the hardware store.


  3. 1.The small tank under the seat is the oil reservoir. Connected to the motor via the hand pump fitted on the side near the fuel tank.
    2.There is no air filter on the carburettor, a bell mouth is all there is.

  4. The center button on the switch would be the key to remove and lock the switch. the lower would be on or off with the key inserted in place, or to change the batteries, like the CD Olds.
    I make tyre levers from old spokes, they do not damage the paint.

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